Friday, June 5, 2015

Green Late 18th Century Stays

Now that I have the most essential undergarment done, I can plunge head first into the 18th century!
I used the JP Ryan half-boned stays. I don't really love the pattern, or the results. I don't think it shapes enough for my taste, and the instructions are inaccurate. This really marks the beginning of my love-hate relationship with the JP Ryan pattern line. Also, I feel that the neckline is too narrow, and I'd prefer if the straps tied in front. I'm not really a fan of needing other people to lace me up.

I don't think they give my form a conical enough shape, so I suspect I'll be doing most of the fitting for 18th century garments on my self. Next pair is going to be fully boned, and I'm going to probably use a Nora Waugh pattern from Corsets and Crinolines. 

They're made from 3 layers of linen; nice linen on top, linen canvas in the middle and a slightly less nice linen for the lining. I hand stitched all of the channels, boned with 1/4 inch flat reed, and bound with leather. I pretty much threw out the pattern instructions and put it all together the 18th century way. I should use linen tape to lace, but I'm using poly ribbon because it's strong and slippery which makes lacing myself easier. 

Era: 1770-1790
Materials: Linen, reed, leather
Cost: maybe about $100 all told
Hours: Lost count, this was my working in class project
Accuracy: 60-80%, I'm not flattering myself on this one